Episode 19 | Bailiwick of Jersey
Jersey: not just another mark on the globe, but a beautiful tapestry of history, nature, and indomitable spirit. From its cobblestone streets to its rugged coastlines, the island whispers tales of yesteryears, echoing with the footsteps of everyone who came before.
Descending onto Jersey airport, having flown in from the bustling metropolis of London Heathrow, the change in scenery was profound. One could immediately sense the intimacy of the island, where every lane, nook, and corner seemed to hold a story waiting to be told.
Liberation Square, located in the heart of Saint Helier, is much more than just an urban open space. It stands as a testament to Jersey's resilience, marking the day when the island was liberated from German occupation during World War II. Wander a little deeper into the Central Business District, and the urban environment gives way to layers of history. Here, at the Société Jersiaise, the past truly comes alive. Founded in 1873, this scholarly institution is dedicated to preserving the island’s cultural heritage. For me, it was particularly special; it was here that I uncovered the history and origins of our family, the Valpys, tracing our roots back to the 1400s on Jersey. Imagine, our lineage, existing right here for over six centuries!
Post this revelation, we indulged in a sweet treat, wandering back into the heart of Saint Helier, savouring creamy ice cream while appreciating the varied artwork that adorned the streets. As the sun began to dip, the Port of Saint Helier beckoned. Ingeniously built, the port is a marvel of historical engineering, where boats can navigate the walls only during high tide.
Our first day culminated at the Pomme d'Or Hotel. Its golden apple insignia isn’t just for show; during WWII, it served as an emblem of freedom when the island was liberated.
The following day, while driving to St Brelade's Bay, the Winston Churchill Memorial Gardens caught our attention. A tranquil green expanse, it pays homage to the indomitable spirit of Sir Winston Churchill, emphasizing the unique bond between the British Isles and Jersey.
Saint Helier, with its tunnels and scenic routes, led us to the picturesque Long Beach Park. From here, the Gorey Pier and the imposing Mont Orgueil Castle were in clear view. The castle, with its millennium-old history, has seen everything from French invasions to serving as a royal refuge.
The verdant green lanes of Jersey, hemmed in by thickets, meadows, and centuries-old stone walls, set the scene as we meandered our way to La Houge Bie Museum. Although our stop was brief, the site’s significance can’t be understated. Constructed around 6,000 years ago, this Neolithic monument offers insights into ancient rituals and beliefs.
Our appetites led us to the picturesque La Mare wine estate, a blend of old-world charm and modern viticulture. The fish sandwich here, fresh and perfectly seasoned, is worth a special mention.
Plemont Beach, with its awe-inspiring cliffs and secretive caves, was our next stop. But nature has its own plans, and a sudden downpour ensued. Yet, the silver lining was in sight — a herd of Jersey cows, blissfully grazing, seemingly at one with the rain.
On our journey, the silhouette of La Corbière Lighthouse rose in the distance. A sentinel since 1874, it stands as a beacon, guiding countless sailors through the Channel Islands’ challenging waters. Located right beside the lighthouse was Strongpoint Corbière, home to a large German infantry strongpoint with six fortifications built with two-metre-thick walls and ceilings. Standing inside the fortresses really made me appreciate the rich history of WWII and the part that Jersey played in it.
Finally, St. Brelade’s Parish Church offered a peaceful sanctuary. Nestled in a verdant valley, the church, with its Norman origins, seems to hold within its walls countless tales of faith, hope, and resilience.
My time on Jersey was more than just a vacation; it was a voyage through time. From uncovering ancient family histories to experiencing the island's multifaceted heritage, every moment was a step back in time, a reflection of the past shaping the present. Jersey, with its rich narrative, stands as a testament to the power of history and the unyielding spirit of its people.
